The craft brewing industry in the United States has long been driven by commitment to thinking outside the box. Brewing is an ancient science, of course, and the symbols and habits of tradition are inseparable from beermaking itself. Still, American brewers have come to be leaders in the industry through a unique propensity for subverting expectations and challenging the assumptions of traditional brewing knowledge.

While the pendulum now appears to be swinging back toward traditional styles, innovation continues to define American craft brewing.

One of the great innovators of the late 1990s and early 2000s was Dogfish Head Brewery, founded in Delaware by consummate beer guy Sam Calagione. Over the years, this company has released hundreds of unique and creative concoctions, and its 60, 90, and 120 Minute IPAs remain classics. Dogfish Head pioneered the use of novel ingredients, like grapes, peat moss, wood, berries and exotic spices, as well as resurrecting rare fermentations from such places as Finland, Ethiopia, Aztec Mexico, and ancient Phrygia.

While the company remains a leading light in the brewing world, it is fair to say that Dogfish Head’s star has been eclipsed in recent years by a bumper crop of younger innovators. Perhaps the company’s “off-centered” ethos, catering to misfits and oddballs in the early years, no longer resonates so strongly in a craft beer realm increasingly populated by mustachioed and tattooed hipsters exalting refinement and authenticity.

If Dogfish Head has struggled to release another hit in recent years, one of its newer experiments seems primed to break through even among more mainstream beer drinkers. SeaQuench Ale is described by the company as a “session sour,” and serves as an accessible entrée into the world of sour beers for the uninitiated. In classic Dogfish Head fashion, this beer adds sun-dried limes and sea salt to a blend of three traditional German styles to produce a unique summer quencher.

SeaQuench Ale combines the light, malty sweetness of a Kolsch with the quenching saltiness of a gose and the tartness of a Berliner Weiss, producing something quite unlike most other beers on the shelf. The beer was first released in 2016 but apparently struggled to find traction until recently. While Dogfish Head’s more “off-centered” offerings can sometimes push casual drinkers outside their comfort zones, SeaQuench Ale seems tailored to please picky beer geeks and experimenting novices alike.

This week’s recommendation: SeaQuench Ale, Dogfish Head Brewery. 4.9 percent ABV. Milton, Delaware.

Jon Hill is a writer, historian and craft beer enthusiast from the village of Poland.